According to most states’ laws, tires are legally worn out when they have worn down to 2/32” of remaining tread depth. To help warn drivers that their tires have reached that point, tires sold in North America are required to have indicators molded into their tread design called “wear bars” which run across their tread pattern from their outside shoulder to inside shoulder. Wear bars are designed to visually connect the elements of the tire’s tread pattern and warn drivers when their tires no longer meet minimum tread depth requirements.

However, as a tire wears, it’s important to realize that the tire’s ability to perform in rain and snow will be reduced. With 2/32” of remaining tread depth, resistance to hydroplaning in the rain at highway speeds has been significantly reduced, and traction in snow has been virtually eliminated. If rain and wet roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 4/32” of remaining tread depth. Since water can’t be compressed, you need enough tread depth to allow rain to escape through the tire’s grooves. If the water can’t escape fast enough, your vehicle’s tires will be forced to hydroplane (float) on top of the water, losing traction.

If snow covered roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 6/32” of remaining tread depth to maintain good mobility. You need more tread depth in snow because your tires need to compress the snow in their grooves and release it as they roll.

Your check engine light came on the other day on your automobile.  Seems to be driving ok, but you call us to set up an appointment to have the problem diagnosed.   During your conversation with the service advisor, you are informed that there will be a diagnostic charge associated with this check out.  Why you ask?  You just want to know why the check engine light is on.  Let’s explain the difference in what you think you are calling for, and what we know we will have to do to diagnose it. 

Len’s can plug in a scan tool like the auto parts store and pull a code logged in the computer.  Let’s say it is a misfire code P0300 that is retrieved from the computers memory.  You think, a misfire code, I haven’t felt a misfire while driving.  This surely should be an easy thing to take care of.  The auto parts store will give you a list of possible causes like a spark plug or a fuel injector.  They may even recommend a repair.  This is not a diagnostic, it is a guess, and that is why they do not charge you to pull the code.  Len’s will not charge you to pull the code either.  However, that is where the similarities end between us and an auto parts store.

Off the top of my head, I can think of the following things that can set a misfire code:  a faulty oxygen sensor, a faulty mass air flow sensor, a failed fuel pump, a burned exhaust valve, blocked-up exhaust, bad gas, a slipped timing chain, shorted wiring, open wiring, or a worn camshaft.  That is 10 things I just listed that could be the cause of a random misfire.  NOTICE: no where in that list does it say spark plug, ignition coil, or fuel injector.  While these things can cause a misfire when faulty, the actual potential cause of the misfire is extensive.